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1989-04-05
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~ INTERLEAVINGS 4 ~
~ ~
~ by Tom Zunder ~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Hello and welcome to Interleavings 4. I have just finished reading
ST News 7.2 and have been tidying up my hard drive while I wait for the
files that I couldn't read on screen to be printed by the Neodesk
spooler. I like Neodesk 3; do you?
This issue is very simply about the USA, but before I go I would
like people to know that I now have an Internet address. I am on cix as
tzunder@cix.compulink.ac.uk if you are on JANET then that would be
tzunder@uk.ac.compulink.cix
I would very much like to talk email to anyone on the Net, I guess
that Stefan must have a Net address but does anyone else?
Anyway, on with the show....
Amerika! Amerika!
I had an opportunity to go to the USA on business recently and had a
great time. I think I'll tell you about it!
I flew into Logan Airport in Boston on the 28th March, jetlagged to
pieces by the time gap and having to wait for my colleague to come on a
later flight. Eventually he arrived and we went to collect our hire car.
Whoa! I've never driven on the wrong side of the road, nor an automatic.
Lovely car, about the size of a Cavalier but considered a 'standard' car.
Beautiful black and red trim and a really weird gonging sound which went
off if you did anything wrong, like leave the lights on or leave it in
'Drive' mode. Anyhow, how was I going to cope with the wrong side of the
road?
Great! I had no real problems, just laterally inverted my mind and
away I went, through the evening Boston traffic and onto the
Massachusetts Turnpike. "Hey, they really do have huge billboards over
the road.." Off we went, 50 miles in a vertical snowstorm in New England
after a 7 hour flight and a 16 hour day. As I cruised along in the
outside lane at 55mph I suddenly remembered that this was the country
with silly speed limits. As I overtook a police car I decided to slow
down. (I later discovered that the federal 55mph limit is being eroded
away, especially in big empty states.) We arrived in Worcester and
crashed out in the hotel. Well, I sent a search party out to find the bed
and then trekked to it. The room was BIG!
In fact, and I'm sure Gus would agree, everything is BIG! Forget
Texas, even crowded old New England is built on the premise that all
buildings should have enough land around it for any British builder to
put up a handy estate of mixed semis and bungalows.. Anyhow, to move
along before you all die of boredom, we spent the Sunday being taken on a
guided tour of Maine and New Hampshire, the states above Massachusetts,
going to such strange places as York, Portsmouth, Chelmsford and so on.
Good God, I never knew that the whole of New England really was Old
England shuffled around!
The countryside was beautiful, the roads open and capacious enough
for the early Spring tourists. Portsmouth is delightful, a small version
of ours, but far more idyllic. We ate there and then popped up to York
which is a lovely holiday town hugging the curving coastal bays. We stood
and watched the Atlantic and admired the charming (and defunct)
lighthouse before visiting the New Hampshire state liquor store and
dropping off to sleep on the way back to the hotel. It was a lovely day
and I even got to go to a Toy Liquidators to buy toys at silly prices.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~ Interlude ~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~
You know, I never realised how much difference state government
makes in the USA. New England is not that big, and the states are close
and quite small in comparison to such places as Arizona etc. In this
respect you could compare the Tri State of New Hampshire, Maine and
Massachusetts as equivalent to Yorkshire, Lancashire and 'The Midlands'.
The difference is that each state controls so much more. If you're in New
Hampshire there is no income tax, car tax is half of that in
Massachusetts, the state sells liquor without tax and the land tax is
huge. In Massachusetts, the sales tax is different, income tax is high
and your car plates are expensive. Speed limits change not just on road
type but as you move in and out of states.
This leads to the most interesting behaviour, as the news showed.
People falsify where they live to register their cars, Massachusetts
watches its citizens calculate whether the high land tax in NH is offset
by the absence of income tax. Every Friday night the drinkers drive into
NH to stock up on their booze. Must say, makes regional planning look
quite easy in comparison.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~ Interlude Ends ~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
So next day we did some business, after an 'eat all you can for
$3.50' breakfast at the "Big Boy" diner. You don't want to know all that
so we'll progress to the next bit which is the night we went to Boston.
Our suppliers bundled us into their lovely company van and off we
pootled. "Oh God, it's snarled up tonight!" they said as we moved through
a queue which wouldn't even be considered a delay in London. I was
beginning to think this country might not be too bad after all.
After an evening in Boston I was almost sure. The city is
delightful. We started in the equivalent of Covent Garden, a market and
warehouse area which has been gentrified and filled with food and
speciality shops. I had my first hot fresh bagel with cream cheese. Oh my
god let me eat these forever! We went to the oldest restaurant still
operating in the US, the Union Oyster House. It was actually old! In
fact it had been used as the paymaster's house for the Revolutionary Army
as well as housing a French king in exile. The food was excellent but I
didn't like it, the mussels were too resilient and it put me off the
lobster.
We went to Cheers! Actually we went to the Bull and Finch, which is
the pub which inspired Cheers and which you see in the opening credits.
It is a lovely pub, small and unlike the set used for the TV but I can
see how it inspired the series. It's a tourist trap now, but fortunately
wasn't too crowded. I bought Ann a sweatshirt at an exhorbitant rate and
left contented. You know, the street that it is on, the shot you get in
the opening credits for Cheers, is beautiful, it has functioning gas
lamps, wonderful Victorian houses and a park opposite. It used to be run
down but now it's very desirable, rather like Boston, really.
Well that's the end of Boston, and the end of New England for now.
We got on the plane and with all the assurance of the bus service that it
is, lifted off for Ohio...
~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~ Interlude ~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Well, as I'm flying over the States down to Ohio let me give you a
brief description of US TV. It really is crap. Not just that the
programmes are all full of Barbie doll stereotypes, including token
blacks, but one can rarely watch a programme since most are riddled with
adverts. There is no pause on US TV before the ads, so all of a sudden a
superficial and trite report on the Soviet Union is flicked into an ad
for pain killers. There are ads both between and within programmes, even
ads before and after the theme tune, so it's indigestion pill, opening
for prog, Coke adverts, ten minutes of prog, Ford adverts... and so on.
All this is extremely unsettling and leaves one unable to take in
what one is watching, no wonder the TV is crap, no-one could take it in!
Actually that is what is difficult to ascertain. My hosts claimed to
watch no TV, save Public Service Broadcasting (which is basically Sesame
Street followed by BBC2). However when I asked them how they coped with
the news being hacked to bits by ads, they said they didn't notice, they
simply kept the newspaper on their laps and flipped their minds from one
to the other! Maybe it's just a mindset that you have to get into.
The other interesting thing is how different the states are. PBS in
Cincinatti was good and slick, in New York it was heavy but very in
depth. Cable is very popular, and why? Because there are no ads! Ironic
really since Sky is full of crap. Then again one of the best stations in
terms of entertainment and consistency was Fox, and who owns Fox? Rupert
Murdoch, that well known US citizen..
So, US TV veers from disjointed surreal ad ridden blips of image to
studious and informative PBS to slick, uninterrupted but expensive cable.
You pays your money and you takes your choice! (If you've any money, that
is..)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~ End of Interlude ~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Anyhow so I've flown to Cincinnati, stopping over in another clone
airport en route. The Ohio valley is weird, huge plains of empty glacier
smooth farmland with huge snaking rivers, many splitting into curls and
waves that have no purpose but sure are impressive when you realise how
high up you areand therefore how huge they really are. Interestingly the
Greater Cincinnati Airport is actually in Kentucky, twelve miles from the
border with Ohio. Kentucky is where the terminal moraines of the glaciers
clustered,producing the rolling hills so reminiscient of South England
and a great contrast with the plains we had just flown over, ground flat
by the glaciers.
Cincinnatti sits on the Ohio, over the river is Covington in
Kentucky, as you'd expect they merge right into each other. You know,
this hopping between states happens quite a lot. Cincinnati is a German
city, and as such the architecture is brick based and very reminiscient
of Northern Germany. Its industries were/are machine tools and beer, good
German specialities. We were visiting a machine tool supplier, so I guess
we were here for the right economic reasons.
Cincinnati is dull, not awful as I had been told, but dull. The
people who live there say so, but I guess it's quite okay, and if you
were coming in from the small farming communities which make up Ohio, it
must be quite fun. Procter and Gamble have their corporate HQ in
Cincinnati. They have a bloody big river on their doorstep, and boy does
it move! We ate lunch in a riverboat moored to the side with the river
side replaced by glass and I've got to admit one really can see what a
major artery that river is.
Anyhow, that's all for Cincinnati, the business was very productive
but you lot don't care about that so let's go to New York..
Well, New York was all and more that you would expect. We flew into
La Guardia only a week or two after the crash there and straight into
hustling taxi touts and very clear warnings that to follow them was
bloody dangerous... We sped away in one of the famous Yellow Cabs, over
and under the bridges and underpasses, thru the neon night to Manhattan.
We were staying on Central Park South, at a hotel which had probably seen
better days but which was still salubrious, until you got into the room,
which was tiny! (Actually some of the rooms were gorgeous, I peeked into
them whilst they were being cleaned.)
Not wishing to miss a moment in the city that never sleeps we
grabbed the Fodor's guide I'd been reading on the flight and took a taxi
to the World Trade Centre, hoping to view the city at night, the guide
said it stayed open until 11. Oops! It was wrong and they actually shut
at 9 at that time of year, so back into the taxi and away to Times Square
to look at Broadway. I had been briefed by a Canadian some weeks before
that this was the best place outside of Taiwan to buy cheap electronics.
What I didn't know was that this was also the seediest place for hard
core porn outside of Sweden. Okay so I'm not adverse to smut, but this
was really spoiling the place. I weaved my way down the street haggling
over computers, video camcorders, electronic organisers and virtually
everything else. Each time I walked away, and it's a good job too since
every time the price I reached fell as I became more streetwise and used
to the style of haggling.
New York electronics salesmen are a breed apart. They show no
interest whatsoever in helping you, and tell you nothing at all about the
products they sell. Everything is marked up with astronomical prices and
they consult these to decipher what their baseline price is. If only you
could work out what the figures meant, but you can't so you're in there
fighting in the dark and then they've got you. On the first night I got
offered a camcorder at $800, which seemed quite good. On the last day I
was offered it at $499! I think that the attitude works well, you are
forced to reveal how much you know and from that they know how much they
can get away with. It's hard work, and if you ever go, prepare yourself
first by reading the papers, sussing the ads, then spend a day comparing
prices. You can buy anything there, PAL camcorders, TVs, cameras from all
manufacturers at silly prices, but there wasn't much computer stuff in
the ones I went into.
Anyhow, it was now very late and pausing only to grab a pizza from
an all-nighter we hit the road.
Next day we had to do New York, we had one day in which to really
get to the place, so off we went... Taxi to the Staten Island Ferry
Terminal, bagels and coffee and then over the bay to Staten Island. It's
the cheapest tourist ride in New York. It was great, watching the high
rise skyline of Manhattan receding as we then passed the Statue of
Liberty, cruised past the islands and bridges which link up this water
city. We then walked into the Terminal on Staten Island, turned around
and caught the ferry staright back. What good value. It cost us 50 cents!
The World Trade Center was next, it being but a short walk through
the Lower Manhattan streets which are usually full of the financial elite
of the world. Totally empty on Saturday, and a nice walk later we were
standing at the lift entrance to the top of the World Trade Center. 107
floors and 58 seconds later we were at the top and I've got to admit that
the views were so impressive that I forgot my longstanding fear of
heights and stood right up to edge of the glass, peering down into the
streets below. The only thing more impressive were the huge prices
charged for souvenirs!
At the bottom we went to a ticket clearance house and bought tickets
for "Return From The Forbidden Planet" for $20 each. Try doing that in
London. We wandered around the extensive shops in the basement of the
Trade Center, which incongruously has a weekly farmers' market, and then
decided to 'walk'.
This was the best decision we made all trip. We walked from lower
Manhattan to the bottom of Central Park and we realised two important
facts:
Manhattan is not big & Manhattan is varied and alive.
The total walk was five miles and took us roughly two thirds of the
way across Manhattan. We passed through Chinatown (like downtown Taiwan
but with black people as well), through Soho (like Gucci land with all
the trendy fire escape iron frame buildings you see in films like Ghost),
through Greenwich Village (you know it really is lke a slice of the
sixties mixed with eighties alternative culture) and onto Fifth Avenue
(good God the first block was a load of cheap flats...).
My time in New York was great, I did much more and the play/musical
was excellent but I am very aware of the fact that BTS ("Between the
Sheets" - a 'zine that Tom compiles for a group of ex-university friends)
is now months late and that the beans are burning so I'll finish my
incomplete report on my USA trip with these quotes which partially cover
some of the things I've mentioned and some I haven't;
"We really have everything in common with America nowadays, except,
of course, language"
Oscar Wilde
"In the United States there is more space where nobody is than where
anybody is. That is what makes America what it is."
Gertrude Stein
"I don't know much about Americanism, but it's a damn good word with
which to carry an election."
Warren G Harding
~~~~~eof~~~~~